Final Garment with function zip detail and high neck collar
Stuffing shoulder pad with excess fabric to create volume
Adding the second sleeve and volume
- I love the shapes and volume created here from simple draping of fabric
- To improve excess fabric needs to be cut off and shapes refined
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Collar needs to be smaller and fitted closer to the head
Sleeve draping experiments on the body
Here I started by using my felt square like I did at Archway but this time on the body pinning at the top and crunching upwards allowing this unique silhouette to be re-created.
Looking at durable workwear details on my dads trousers
Quick Draping of sleeve recreating the shape in design development
When talking to Kevin about how to add function/ design to a shape due to its wiggly silhouette he mentioned how draping may help to actually visualise the shapes in fabric form. This process really helped me to visualise something that was 2d into 3d.
Second attempt at my paper garment using the same shapes
Scaled up paper garment using the same shapes
Draping paper objects onto the body
Interacting with paper object
Paper Object created from shape drawings of public art
Winged Figure by Barbara Hepworth, 1963, Bond Street, London
Placed on the side of the John Lewis store in London, “Winged figure” had a curving shape which reminded me of an angel towering over the street. I also loved the irregular shaped holes contrasting against the clean metal lines overlapping on the top.
Image 1: Model of Winged Figure being transported through the streets of St Ives, August 1962
Image2: Barbara Hepworth and two assistants (DiconNance above, Norman Stocker below) at work on the armature, stage one, 1962
Image 3: John Lewis Building, Oxford Street, London
Historical Image Resource: http://barbarahepworth.org.uk/sculptures/1962/winged-figure/
Quantum Cloud by Anthony Gormley, 2000, Greenwich Park, O2 sculpture trail
“tetrahedral sections which are connected to over 3,500 of the same elements extending into space. Evoking the quantum age, and suggesting an unstable relation between energy andmass” I love how you don’t really know if this piece is a science experiment or art piece; to me it feels like a mixture of the two. In the quote space is also mentioned as an important part of the exhibition looking at how the chaotic metal shapes start very squished and then dissipate outwards. This juxtaposes against the location of the installation which is squished next to a tourist boat docking area and underneath the emirates gondola whichruinstheconcept and makes the spectators feel disconnected towards it. If I was able to get closer to the piece I think my views of its location could be different as I would be able to get underneath it and look inside of it.
Film still from Body Parts, 1991
Gary Hume's sculptures that had mannequin arms attached together reminded me of some type of botched surgery gone wrong where body parts hd been attached together. I discovered this film called "Body Parts" which was made in 1991 and is a horror thriller film about the body parts of a murdered being transferred onto other humans and the murderers personality taking over the host. I thought the front cover of the film was very unique especially the wiggly lines with body parts hanging from it; this looks a bit like a continuous line drawing.
Liberty grip by Gary Hume, 2008, Greenwich Park, O2 sculpture trail
I was most excited to see this piece of work; its unclean lines, hints of contrasting pastel pink and shapely silhouette makes me think of movement and sticks out of its location against the clean lines of concrete pathways and fencing. The sculpture I found out was created in three separate sections inspired by the mannequins arms you find at shops. Again I find it interesting how when I looked at the piece before I could tell it was of body limbs but Hume has used a mannequin female body shape which is normally not an honest representation of a female body maybe pointing out bigger issues in society of expectations that women have to look like.
Some more sculpture works by Gary Hume here continue the theme of mannequin arms using different bronzing techniques and colours; the silhouettes here continue to amaze me and I could imagine these turning into garments. It also made me think of why he decided to join the arms together in a way linking back to non-honest representations of the body and surgery.
Image 5 & 6 Resource:
A slice of reality by Richard Wilson, 2000, Greenwich Park, O2 Sculpture Trail
Described by Richard Wilson as a 'sound bite’, This piece is a 1/8th slice of what was originally the Arco Trent, an ocean-going sand dredger. I like the idea behind it and its something which fits in with the location of the Thames extremely well however personally I don’t find it very exciting or provocative.
Quote Resource: http://the-line.org/#/landing
Here by Thomson & Craighead, 2013, Greenwich Park, O2 Sculpture Trail
“The concept was to mark the distance of the work from itself along a North/South axis. The physical sculpture, marksthe 24,859 mile distance around the earth and back. The current placement of this sculpture is particularly relevant in its current location on the Greenwich Meridian, which is located at 0 degrees”
Quoteresource: http://the-line.org/#/artists/2
I like the concept of this piece, it seems logical, like it has a point to inform the spectators and make you feel like you have learnt something. However, for the drawing aspect it does not feel very inspirational. Therefore I decided to research other pieces of artwork and found this piece which was of greeting messages sent with the Voyager One Interstellar Probe launched from earth in 1977. Again this piece has a similar purpose of informing the spectator and applying facts to artwork.Transcription image resource: http://www.ucl.ac.uk/slade/slide/micromegas.html
A bullet from a shooting star by Alex Chinneck, 2015, Greenwich Park, O2 Sculpture Walk
Personally I resent this public art piece; I think its because when looking at the piece at its location I did not find It very exciting and a bit of an eye sore – firstly the whole site was cornered off so I could not get very close at all and had to look at it through a fence. This most likely downgraded the pure scale of the piece if you were to be stood underneath it. Inspired by oil and gas industrial works that used to run across the Thames and Greenwich Peninsula; metal steel work criss crossed creating unique shadows on the tarmac. However the sheer angle and unbalance of the art piece amazes me and made me think of something I had at my college garden: a sun dial but on a bigger scale.
Face of Stillness ll by Emily Young at Southwark, London
I found large head sculptures by Emily Young; the pieces caught my eye due to the silhouette, especially the one called ”Face of Stillness ll”. Instead of being a perfect round normal head sculpture the back of the head was a jagged rough edge like a rock cliff face as if we were seeing into the sculptures head. The sculpture looks to have a feminine shaped face with its eyes closed looking quite dismissive; as if she did not want people ogling at her. Her use of natural stone materials interest me and show the "relationship we should have with the planet instead of destroying it".
Quote resource: https://www.culture24.org.uk/art/art531648-artist-statement-sculptor-emily-young-on-moving-to-italy-bling-in-london-and-the-feminine-approach
Images of collapsing nets inspired by the shapes and drawings of my public art piece
When doing design development I referenced back to my research constantly which really helped me if I got stuck because sometimes the drawing can get repetitive. The way the nets collapse and fold onto each other overlapping- creating volume; this inspired my sleeve and fabric choice for my final garment.
Knitting: A Common Art
When I found this book at the library I was really pleased because it was based on how knitting was used to create fishing clothing- especially as a town creating their own type of knitted garment called a gansey. " The gansey developed among them as a working garment. It clings to the body to maximise its protective warmth-giving properties and to avoid being in the way during work, The sleeves are often short, wet cuffs being an uncomfortable assistance to fisherman".
Choosing final public art piece and garment detailing choice
I have decided to choose the Gary Hume sculpture 'Liberty Grip' to focus on because this page had the most successful drawings and I liked the heavy materials that contrasted against its fluid shape. As I have decided to work monochrome for this project I also felt this sculpture worked linked well due to its dark bronzed colours with pale pink edge; reminding me to be more selective about colour. I then looked at the location which was by a key fishing boat location so I decided to focus on heavy duty fisherman clothing for garment details.
Fisherman arment detailing via ARTSTOR
Image Resources: http://www.artstor.org
Fishermen in the costumes of seal skin. Ya. Leytsinger, Arkhangelsk Province, Russia, 1887
Looking at collapsing nets which gather creating folds and a unique bumpy silhouette. These shapes look very similar and linked well with the silhouette design development we had been doing in our sketchbooks.
Vintage American Workwear
Hat by Balenciaga, 1959
This design in particular stood out to me because it mixed great function with beauty. For example, the layers of thin black chiffon almost look like layers of petals of flowers but harsh black contrasts against this idea. The function comes from the idea that if it rains your head is completely covered and also most of your body becoming something which is very protective. Something I also need to focus on when adding my own garment details to design ideas.
Image Resource: https://library-artstor-org.arts.idm.oclc.org/#/search/balenciaga;page=1;size=24
Pattern Magic 2, Tomoko Nakamichi, Kings Cross Central Saint Martins library
The shapes here which show cubes coming out of the bodice could easily be re-interpreted into a shape I created from my own drawings of the public art sculptures. This would be quite a physical and technical way of showing my ideas on a garment.
Urban Interventions: Personal Projects in Public Spaces By Gestalten, 2010
I love the curvy and shapely qualities of these public art pieces which juxtapose against the rigidity of the buildings. The sheer scale of the pieces also show how the artists weren't scared of going big and being unsafe. I think I love this work so much also because of the uneven and disorderly lines which would create unique continuous line drawings and silhouette drawings.
The Cutting Edge, Fashion From Japan: Yohji Yamamoto, 1994
In the book he asserts that 'dirty, stained, withered, broken things seem beautiful to me" this quote I love because its simple but shows how these things were once new and just because they are a bit old now doesn't mean they are not beautiful or useful anymore.
This section in the book really helped me to understand the meaning behind its collection; the way you can actually feel a type of clothing which distributes into a form of performance art. This links into the public art theme but instead of a sculpture its a performance.
Trouser suit by Bruno Pieters for Honest By, 2017, Belgium © Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Becoming the forefront of sustainable fashion Bruno Pieter's work is being exhibited at the Fashioned From Nature exhibit at the V&A. When researching about his ethics I found it really interesting how he labels all the sources of all his materials onto the garments. Allowing customers to see behind the garments which they only see at the shelf all nicely packaged. This messaged has continued to be displayed on this jacket pictured below a really clear but simple message.
"If you don't do it now, you'll have to adapt when complete transparency becomes mandatory,"
Image Resource: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/fashioned-from-nature
Airmail dress by Hussein Chalayan, 1999
I chose this dress from Hussein Chalayan’s work because it was made from a similar material we were using for our paper garments; Tyvek, a non woven, paper-like textile. This dress eventhough it’s a boring silhouette can be folded into an envelope and sent through the mail.
Image Resource: https://library-artstor-org.arts.idm.oclc.org/#/asset/AMFITIG_10313880162;prevRouteTS=1540331841483
Folding Techniques for Designers from sheet to form By Paul Jackson
In this book it opened up my mind to the properties and abilities paper has. For example this simple sheet of paper below has been scrunched downwards in one motion creating what looks like a voluminous pleated skirt.
Tyrolese School, 12th century, Tyrolese, 12th C. Angel. Artstor
This fresco plaster painting caught my eye because it has a very similar silhouette to the Barbara Hepworth sculpture and could continue to be further inspiration to look into and even the technique of fresco painting which would create a different unique texture.
Notes from Anthony Gormley’s “Co-ordinate”
Silk Pale Pink Organza Dress by Madeleine Vionnet, 2006
I chose this particular close up images because it represented the ideas of seam to seam that we were applying to our paper shapes but in a repetitive and more technical way.
Image Resource: https://library-artstor-org.arts.idm.oclc.org/#/search/vionnet;page=1;size=24
USA. Mississipi. Gulfport, Cheerleader, 1954
The Sister Troop by Gary Hume, 2007
As series of collaged screen prints inspired by American Cheerleaders. ”is abstracted into expanses of colour against the shimmer of brushed metal. Alluding to the American dream, Hume hints at a disquiet that lies beyond the fake smiles, patriotism and perfect tans” Here Hume is looking beyond the fabricated happy faces and focusing on the silhouette of the body highlighting the strains it goes through to be perfect.
Image and Quote Resource: https://www.britishcouncil.jp/en/private-utopia/artist-profiles/gary-hume
Flying Saucer" dress by Issey Miyake, 1994
Looking at the edging of this dress and thinking how I could re-create this using paper or what type of fabric I would use; the colours I like because it blends the black middle area in well however this is not very relevant as we are working in monochrome.
Image Resource: https://library-artstor-org.arts.idm.oclc.org/#/search/issey%20miyake;page=1;size=24
Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, 2011, Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art
The shoes are like a public art piece in itself with the normal shape of a shoe being inverted outwards.
Kansai Yamamoto, 2008
This collection by Kansai Yamamoto was inspired by the “colourful art of Japan’s Momoyamaperiod (1568–1615) and traditional Kabuki theater, his exuberant designs contrast with the Zen-like simplicity and deconstructed silhouettes favoured today”. This collection and designer caught my eye for the bright textural like qualities of the flowers placed onto very dismal peasant like clothing.
Image Resource: https://library-artstor-org.arts.idm.oclc.org/#/search/Kansai%20Yamamoto;page=1;size=24
Gary Hume By Whitechapel Art Gallery
After looking in this book and Gary Hume's art pieces I liked the colour combinations used which links to this public art I visited and the monochrome sketchbooks theme I am doing this week. The black and deep green contrasts against the tiny pale pink maybe linking the dark colours to themes of fisherman clothing and the pink representing femininity and fisherman wives.