Denim Project Evaluation

Progressing throughout this project was really tough juggling between doing my portfolio and denim project. I wish I had more time to do my denim project because the theme really excited me. Looking into the physical process of indigo dying at first did not interest me however once I found my own story looking into the mixing stick and how its passed down in generations my excitement for the research grew. 

Experimenting with denim I mostly made sculptures and did weaving inspired by the shapes of the mixing stick wrapping denim over and over each other until I had these heavy chunky sticks. The reaction from peers was really positive which fuelled my progression to keep in the lines of this project research. I also want to constantly broaden my knowledge on materials so in this project I had a go playing around with latex (linking to the indigo mixture) involving colour and beads for extra texture. To improve I think I could have explored latex and other materials which would have imitated the indigo mixture better.

As I continued to develop my denim experiments I had created a mixture inspired by the indigo dye using all sorts of materials. Personally the initial pattern ideas I got from this experiment I wish I had developed further as looking back these were really exciting especially the colours and shapes.  Maybe this could be a route I continue later on developing in a different direction to see where it would take me.
 
During the draping and design development I used my structure to develop body shapes with inspiration from performance art; the phrase ‘body becomes the stick’ really stuck in my head. With the idea that my final outcome allows your body to become the mixing stick. Performance artist Rebeca Horn with her work body extensions really helped me in understanding performance art and how it adds another dimensions to fashion and garment sculptures. During peer crits they really liked my idea with performance art and someone suggested to look into other cultures that use a stick e.g martial arts again this is another regret I have from the project as I think this would have added a different source of research to my work. 
 
Overall I feel underwhelmed with how my final outcome turned out but I also feel that this was due to time constraints. However I was pleased with how my performance art film turned out because it allowed me to actually see and feel how tiring it is to imitate the movements of the indigo dyers with this huge stick attached to the bottom of their hands.

 

 

Final Outcome Images

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Imitating indigo dye movements

Imitating indigo dye movements

  • Filming this piece with my knitted denim sleeves was actually really heavy and became hard work. In a way reminding me of how much work it is to mix indigo dye using their huge wooden mixing stick.
  • With the knitted sleeves being relatively tight to my own arms you could really see how my own arms are moving and the structure at the end of my hands add a unique silhouette.

Yayoi Kusama, Walking Piece, 1966

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Planning to create my own performance art I found Yayoi Kusama's work really inspiring showing her journey throughout New York and how she faced the challenges of a contrasting culture. When filming my own performance art I will take stills from my films which show a unique silhouette and the movements of my garment on the body.

Rebecca Horn Body Extensions - Kings Cross Library

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After doing lots of experiments draping my denim stick onto the body and continuing an interest in performance art I thought Rebecca Horns Body extensions work was really relative as long structures are attached to the end of her fingers. Allowing for your mind to imagine what the textures feels like at the end of the stick. When doing design development I looked back at the draping I did with the stick and thought of how the "body could become the stick" , the body becomes this important piece of equipment the indigo dyers need to work. 

Immitating indigo mixture with latex experiments

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Experimenting with the material latex; the way the colours mix and the texture of the beads looks I was excited to mix these experiments with denim and my denim mixing stick. 

Denim stick poking through the knitting

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Using the submerged denim yarn I arm knitted and started poking my denim stick through the holes. Allowing for some soft structure to be added to the harshness of the denim stick. I also think that a knitted fabric if knitted tightly out of denim would be really heavy and a weight/burden on your body.

Submerging denim yarn in the mixture

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Using my denim stick to mix my mixture imitating the movements by indigo dye workers

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Using my denim mixing stick I watched the video back and imitated the movements of the indigo dye workers. The nail polish in particular in the mixture clung to the denim adding spots of colour. These patches of colour looks like the dripping textured indigo dye in my primary research imagery.

Mixture clinging to rubber glove

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Inspired by the mixing of indigo and creating my own mixture

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A mixture created using nail polish, flour, sweets, ink, curry powder etc. This mixture created some really unique patterns with intense contrasting colours. 

Kofa Mata Dye Pit, Kano Nigeria

An indigo dye worker with his heavy burden of wet cloth - Indigo by Janice Gunner

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This image really stuck in my head during primary research. This heavy burden of wet cloth this indigo worker has represents  the struggles traditional indigo workers are going through to keep up as mass production of indigo for jeans rises. 

Creating my own dye texture using dylon dyes

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Texture from the mixing of dye ingredients

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Boko Haram Insurgency

The Boko Haram Insurgency is a religious conflict in Nigeria which is still on-going. “The insurgency took place within the context of long-standing issues of religious violence between Nigeria's Muslim and Christian communities. Boko Haram has been called the world's deadliest terrorist group” This has caused a loss of tourism for the Kofar Mata dye pit and also a loss of jobs/income for indigo dyers.

Details of mixing stick

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The mixing stick seems a really important element of creating the indigo mixture. Especially how it juts out in different directions at the end and passed down in generations within the family. I am excited to have a go making my own stick using denim to see if I can create a similar silhouette.

Indigo Dye mixture

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Three ingredients are mixed together for a whole week before being ready to use as indigo. These three ingredients are Ash, Indigo and Potash. I was interested in the way all of these  ingredients are mixed together firstly creating a brightly coloured marbled effect to a very deep dark shade of blue. These colours could be an inspiration for colour palette as I do not particularly want to make a fully shades of blue denim piece instead I think it would be more experimental to play around with colour on denim.

INDIGO By Janice Gunner - Kings Cross Library

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Heavy weight strands of wool dyed in a variety of indigo shades. Exploring the different shade ranges of denim and a possible colour scheme.

Kofar Mata Dye Pit

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The Kofar Mata Dye pit is around 2 hours away from Nigeria and is one of the largest indigo dying centres in Africa. However previously having 150 visitors to the pit a week now it will only be 10-15. This is due to the Boko Haram insurgency who started an armed rebellion against the Nigerian Government. Now less and less people also work at the Dye pit creating a sharp fall of production in the industry. The workers are also battling against the synthetic indigo dying process which is becoming more popular due to its mass production and how much less it fades in the sun.

Bibliography

 ASIRI Magazine, asirimagazine.com/en/kanos-kofar-mata-dye-pits-struggling-textile-dyeing-industry/.

Design, Africa By. “AFRICA BY DESIGN | Kofa Mata Dye Pit, Kano Nigeria.” YouTube, YouTube, 27 Mar. 2017, www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXj02HeeRbw.

Flynn, Daniel. “Ancient Indigo Dye Pits Barely Survive in Nigeria.” Reuters, Thomson Reuters, 26 Apr. 2007, www.reuters.com/article/us-nigeria-dyers-idUSL2668533920070426.

Barlow, P. (2003). The brink. London: Picador.
 
Brown, M. (2016, April 28). Phyllida Barlow: an artistic outsider who has finally come inside. Retrieved February 9, 2019, from https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2016/apr/28/phyllida-barlow-artist-success-2017-venice-biennale#img-5
 
Marquez, J. (2018). Make mend: sashiko-inspired embroidery projects to customize and repair textiles and decorate your home. California: Watson-Guptill.
 
Moreno-Bunge, S., & Moreno-Bunge, S. (2014, February 27). DIY: Indigo Dye with Cara Marie Piazza. Retrieved February 9, 2019, from https://www.gardenista.com/posts/diy-indigo-dyeing/
 
Napierkowski, M. R., & Ruby, M. K. (1998). Poetry for students: presenting analysis, context and criticism on commonly studied poetry. Detroit, MI: Gale Research.
 
SHADES OF YELLOW / RED. Retrieved February 9, 2019, from https://www.dylon.co.uk/en/home/products/machine-dye.cky.html
 
Structure and Surface: Contemporary Japenese Textiles by MOMA. New York.
 
Tate. Rebecca Horn born 1944. Retrieved February 9, 2019, from https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artists/rebecca-horn-2269
 
Weinberger, K., Wawrzyniak, M., Schedler, P., Hackney, B., Waters, J., & Trebay, G. (2011). Rebel youth: Karlheinz Weinberger. New York, NY: Rizzoli New York.
 
wikiHow. (2018, November 28). How to Bleach Jeans. Retrieved February 9, 2019, from https://www.wikihow.com/Bleach-Jeans
 
Yayoi Kusama | Walking Piece (1966) | Artsy. Retrieved February 9, 2019, from https://www.artsy.net/artwork/yayoi-kusama-walking-piece
 
Yayoi Kusama, Walking Piece, 1966. Retrieved February 9, 2019, from https://whitney.org/WatchAndListen/846

Deconstructing and draping denim

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Deconstructing a pair of denim trousers and relating to the body with my denim stick.

  • Inspired by how the trouser leg when lifted above the models head creates a natural drape hanging downwards. I think this was also due to the lightweight denim fabric I used.
  • When placing the mixing stick onto the shoulder it automatically relates my sample to the body and links to my heavy burden research.

BRINK: Phyllidia Barlow - Kings Cross Library

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  • Inspired by the way Phyllidia Barlow has created these huge structures but still have immense detail and texture. I would like to achieve this in my own denim manipulation. Using the technique of wrapping denim with the contrast of light denim to dark denim adds that detail and contrast needed.

Manipulating denim samples

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  • When manipulating denim I was really pleased with how my samples turned out. The techniques I used included wrapping denim, fraying denim and weaving denim. In particular I thought the wrapping denim was really effective because I could create a strong structured sample that had a similar silhouette to my research imagery.

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Indigo By Janice Gunner - Kings Cross Library

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Jeans by Karlheinz Weinberger

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Grandpa wearing Double Denim

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Structure and Surface: Contemporary Japenese Textiles by MOMA

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Structure and Surface: Contemporary Japenese Textiles by MOMA

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I was instantly drawn to this image in the book for its contrast in texture from the transparency of the white muslin fabric to this thick fuzzy brown shapes. I would like to try and recreate the same idea using denim; pulling warp threads in certain areas and building them back up in other areas.